Things to Do in Songkhla

About Songkhla

Songkhla announces itself with the slap of waves against the 400-year-old stone of Tang Kuan Hill and the scent of dried squid grilling on Samila Beach at dawn. The old town along Nakhon Nok Road still wakes to the clang of metal shutters and the hiss of kopi being pulled through a sock filter—this is the kind of neighborhood where coffeeshops have red plastic stools worn smooth by three generations of fishermen and the walls still bear shrapnel scars from the Japanese occupation. Walk south past the mermaid statue (she's smaller than the postcards suggest, always surrounded by Malaysian families taking selfies with her bronze breasts) and you'll find the night market on Tae Raek Road where a bowl of khao yam—rice salad tossed with toasted coconut and budu fish sauce—costs 40 baht ($1.10) and comes with a view of fishermen mending nets under fluorescent lights. The city stretches between the Gulf of Thailand and Songkhla Lake, connected by the concrete sweep of Tinsulanonda Bridge that locals still call the 'new bridge' even though it's forty years old. You'll pay 800 baht ($22) for a sea-view room in the old quarter or 2,800 baht ($78) for a resort with infinity pools that overlook the same water. The catch: Songkhla doesn't cater to international tourists the way Phuket does—English menus are rare, the beaches have jellyfish warnings, and the weekend crowds are mostly Thais and Malaysians who drive down from Hat Yai. This is exactly why it's worth the detour.

Travel Tips

Transportation: Songkhla's songthaews (converted pickup trucks) run fixed routes for 20 baht ($0.55) between the old town and Samila Beach, but you'll need to know the Thai for your destination. Download the Grab app—rides from Hat Yai airport cost 600-800 baht ($17-22) depending on traffic, while the local minivan is 100 baht ($2.80) but drops you at the bus station, not your hotel. Renting a motorbike costs 250 baht ($7) daily; the roads are decent but watch for sand drifts on beachfront stretches.

Money: Cash dominates outside hotels—night market stalls, temple donations, even some guesthouses. 7-Eleven ATMs dispense maximum 20,000 baht ($550) with 220 baht ($6) fees; Kasikorn Bank has slightly better rates. ATMs close to the Malaysian border often run out of cash on weekends. The locals' trick: exchange money at Hat Yai's Lee Gardens Plaza before crossing into Songkhla—rates are consistently 2-3% better than local banks.

Cultural Respect: Songkhla's Muslim population means shorts and tank tops on beaches only—cover shoulders and knees in town, around Ton Nga Chang Mosque. At Wat Matchimawat, the 300-year-old temple in the old quarter, remove shoes before entering any building and don't point your feet toward Buddha statues. The monks collecting alms at dawn on Nang Ngam Road expect silence; locals simply place food in their bowls without making eye contact. Friday prayers mean the streets around Mambang Mosque empty between 12-2 PM—plan lunch accordingly.

Food Safety: The night market on Tae Raek Road runs 5-11 PM—stalls with the longest Thai queues are safest. Look for kanom jeen vendors who ladle fresh curry over rice noodles for 35 baht ($1); avoid seafood that's been sitting out. The Muslim quarter around Sathing Phra Road serves halal khao mok gai (Thai biryani chicken) for 45 baht ($1.25)—it's spicier than Malaysian versions. Tap water is questionable; 7-Eleven sells large bottles for 14 baht ($0.40). Pro tip: the food court at Central Plaza has air-conditioning and the same vendors as the street, minus the heat and flies.

When to Visit

March through May brings 35-38°C (95-100°F) days that make the concrete of Samila Beach too hot for bare feet—hotel prices drop 30% during these months, with sea-view rooms at BP Samila Beach Hotel falling from 2,800 baht ($78) to 1,900 baht ($53). June to September means afternoon thunderstorms that clear by 4 PM; the rain comes down hard enough to flood Nakhon Nai Road but cools everything to 28-30°C (82-86°F). October and November are the sweet spot—26-29°C (79-84°F), clear skies, and the annual Loy Krathong festival when the lake fills with floating lanterns. December through February sees Malaysian tourists escaping their monsoon season—expect hotel prices to jump 50% and restaurants around Tae Raek Market to have 20-minute waits. The vegetarian festival in late September turns the old town into a smoke-filled maze of tofu stalls and fire-walking ceremonies. Songkran water festival (April 13-15) brings three days of water fights that close entire streets; locals stockpile water guns and whiskey for the occasion. Budget travelers should target May and September when flights from Bangkok drop to 1,200 baht ($33) on AirAsia and guesthouses offer 'slow season' rates around 600 baht ($17). Luxury travelers: avoid December when the Sheraton's beachfront suites hit 8,000 baht ($220) per night and the mermaid statue has hour-long queues for photos.